Paris is a complex and sophisticated city in which one could lose themselves and find themselves within the same hour. Its circuitous streets and quaint stores add to the pleasure of exploring the city and to the sense that you are truly in a different world. Although I have not personally been to Paris, I have discovered an immense number of things through my UNHO course and assigned readings; and though I can not list a single small shop or café off the top of my head, I do distinctly remember three lessons for traveling in and experiencing Paris. Thus, finding their place on my Paris must’s list are three simple ideas: enjoy the small restaurants; visit the Luxembourg Gardens; and the Eiffel Tower.
Enjoy the Small Restaurants: Café Constant
What I love about the French is their way of looking at food and rationalizing their adoration. Stephen Clarke phrases this extremely well in his book Talk to the Snail: Ten Commandments for Understanding the French:
“The French have a word for this Epicureanism that can’t be translated into English- gourmandise. Some dictionaries have it as ‘gluttony,’ but that’s wrong, because gluttony is a negative thing, whereas gourmandise is a healthy sensual desire for the taste and texture of food. A gourmandise is another word for treat, and the word can also be applied to sexual appetite.” (65)
It is this love of food that sets the French apart from so many other nations in terms of culinary appreciation. The Café Constant is one such a place where one can find the same love and appreciation that Mr. Clarke describes in his book. It is know for its low prices which accompany its high quality of food and is also known for its desserts. It is located in the 7th arr. on rue Saint-Dominique.
The outside vies of the café.
It is located near many other small shops and stores which one can visit after eating here. Although it is by no means a 5-star restaurant, in which one pays an arm and a leg for food, it is an embodiment of French quality cuisine that will not leave you a pauper.
The Luxembourg Gardens: Outshine the Louvre
La fontaine de médicis en la jardin du Luxembourg
Although museums such as the Louvre contain the inspired brilliance of artists from every era, it is the Luxembourg Gardens which truly capture the imagination. They're a must to visit in the city of lights and contain some of the most dazzling designs of sculpture, foliage, and park expanses that one could imagine. In Journey into the City of Light, David Downie says this of one of the beautiful landmarks of the gardens, the Fountaine de Médicis:
“This oblong pool is flanked by twin ranks of tall sycamores draped with ivy bows, a living garland motif. No matter what season, it’s cool and damp here…. The white marble sculptures of Acis and Galatea enlaced rapturously in the fountain’s grotto. Above them lurks the menacing Polyphemous, a greenish bronze monster twice their size.” (19)
This fountain in particular was the adored favorite of Marie de Médicis, who moved into her palace in 1625; however, she was quickly expelled from France by her son Louis XIII. Thus, even in the parks which are but shadows of the palaces of France, we find that history has not passed over them lightly.
The Jardin de Luxembourg
One of the greatest pleasures of going to a park is the detachment from the bustle of city life it seems to bring. Disregarding the beautiful beds of flowers, the wonderfully crafted statues, or the masterfully designed walkways, it is truly the air of relaxation in a city tense with centuries old expectations that makes the Luxembourg Gardens so magnificent.
The Eiffel Tower: Don’t be a Tourist
The Eiffel Tower alight on a Paris night
The Eiffel tower is one of the most iconic structures in Paris and continues to enthrall tourists to this day. However, if I have learned anything about traveling in Paris, it is this: do not wait in line at the Eiffel Tower! It is a waste of time and money that could be better used for exploring and experiencing Paris. In 10 Mistakes Paris Visitors Must Avoid (and how true that is), Alex Wagner states:
“After trudging through one labyrinthine line for tickets and re-queuing for the cattle car–like elevators, you'll start to lose faith in the whole endeavour. And just when you think the ordeal is over, there are the lines to get back to terra firma. All that, only to realize that if you're experiencing a view from the tower, you can't actually enjoy the view of it—which is too bad, since it's the defining feature of the Paris skyline! So, a big waste of time all round” (10)
It is truly awful when the one defining moment of your visit to Paris is literally right under your nose. However, to remedy the problem of wasting time to only miss out on the Eiffel Tower, Wagner offers two restaurants that they believe have a picture perfect view: Les Ombres and Café de l’Homme.
View of the Eiffel Tower from Les Ombres
View of the Eiffel Tower from the Café de l’Homme
Not only do these two vantage points give one a beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower, but they also give one another opportunity to enjoy the amazing French food which I discussed in the first section. Its funny how, even when exploring Paris from a world away, you can still manage to lose yourself and then find yourself again in the same sitting (that and I’m starving).
